NORTHERN PLANNER

Who doesn't like chips? But what kind of chips? The lovely, soft, slippery greasy chips from a good British fish and chip shop? The big fat chunky and robust chips from a pub? The European 'fry' thin cut and dipped in mayonnaise?

I love all of the above but on a cold, dark winter's night, one of those that requires a thick pullover and something good to drink, when only a comfy sofa, good telly and warming, casual food will do, I'm going to share the chips I want – or wedges really. Made with love, without fuss or waiting, but well worth the effort.

Now that the clocks are changing in the UK, seems like the right time to share. Step forward duck, of goose fate, chips.

You want Maris Piper Potato's. Don't bother peeling them, just make sure they're scrubbed. Cut into nice thick wedges.

Choose a baking tray your chips will fit into with plenty of room and put in a good knob of duck fat or goose fat (you can buy it in the supermarket these days). Put the tray in an oven at 220 degrees C.

Put them in a pan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Then boil for another 10 minutes. Drain the water, sprinkle with sea salt and shake it all about to rough up the edges and coat with the salt.

Bring your tray out of the even, with the fat now hot and spitting a bit – gently tip in your chips and toss in the oil until they're all coated. Put the tray back in the oven, check after ten minutes. They should be nice and crisp and a fork should go through them easily. If not, give then another five minutes.

Then enjoy however you like – I like Heinz ketchup and if I'm hungry, make a couple of sandwiches with lovingly buttered soft bread. The chips will be nice and crisp, but outrageously soft in the middle and there's something about the chunky, crisp softness laced with the duck or goose fat that lifts the spirits and warms the soul.